Every day is a new adventure in Ghana

Written by Seren Ovington - GapBreak 2009, Ghana
I’ve just had a cracking start to my third week in Ghana, even though it feels as though I have been here forever! Eva and I had our first day of teaching today. Up until now I have been surprised how easy my life in Ghana has been. Why had I thought life in Africa would be tough???

Standing in front of a class of 40 six year olds quickly made me realise that I had my work cut out from me. It is incredible how quickly they can change from being adorably cute to insane little devils who chase one another round the classroom, smack each other, scream and pretend not to understand even the most basic English - sit down and be quiet for example! I’m hoping that we'll be able to establish some authority (I now have so much respect for all teachers) and as we were kind of flung in front of the class today with no notice, when we have lesson plans we will at least feel like we have more control!

To rewind a little bit ... Our first week was spent in Accra. We went through an orientation, which included a brief but fascinating introduction to Ghanaian history and culture, drumming and dancing lessons, as well as a couple of vital sessions with the lovely Tina (our in country agent) discussing all the issues we are likely to come across. We went to some markets - they were so chaotic, vibrant, smelly, and hectic, just such a whirlwind I think I quite possibly forgot to breathe (which I guess at time was lucky when we walked past piles of smoked fish, pigs trotters, slabs of fat ... even giant snails!) All the market sellers were so friendly, shouting out Akwaaba (welcome) I just couldn’t wipe the smile of my face so walked round like an idiot with the hugest grin! One very hot day we went to La Pleasure beach. It was very cool, people randomly drumming and singing, a horse, some people even pulled out boxing gloves and had the most violent and aggressive yet good humoured boxing match! Anyway, I decided to dive into Ghanaian cuisine and ordered banku (fermented maize and casava bashed until I forms a goo). I think I was a little ambitious, it was quite disgusting, so bitter and I can’t say much for the goo texture. Apart from the banku however, I have really enjoyed the food here, in fact a bit too much! Especially since the portion size here is ridiculously large! That first week also gave us time to get know each other, which was really nice. Everyone is great and we all get along very well!

The week in Accra was all very surreal as I desperately tried to absorb all the new experiences we were bombarded with. And just as I was starting to get into to the groove of Accra we were sent off to our village homes. My home in Gomoa Ekwamkrom is very swish, by Ghanaian standards. We have electricity and running water (most of the time) a toilet, proper shower (even though I'm quite partial to bucket showers now), a fridge and Eva and my bedroom is very nice. Our host mother Grace is very enthusiastic! She is so loud and lovely and just always makes sure we are well. Oh and a fantastic cook! Also in our family there is Abigail (19) and Graces mother Rose.

We spent a week at the orphanage just out of Swedru, the town we are all based around. It was quite tough. Seeing all the kids so impoverished and desperate for human affection was very moving. Despite their shredded clothes, running noses and protruding bellies, they were the best natured, loveliest kids. Their smiles were so big and their eyes lit up with a hug or dance. We played with the kids, washed the dirtiest clothes I have ever seen, washed and swept floors and tried to help out as best as we could. I think though that because we were in such a big group it was hard for the orphanage workers to give us jobs that utilised everyone. I have been thinking about what I could do for them that would be most beneficial and we are going back every week to do what we can.

Life in Ghana in general is crazy. Everyone moves so slowly, sitting around and everything perpetually runs late but in spite of this lethargy there is an atmosphere of constant activity and chaos! It is so noisy here. Even at 4 in the morning, there are people yelling, roosters crowing, radios blasting and who knew sweeping could be so loud! I’m getting fantastic at tuning out noise! I’ve been surprised how quickly i've come to accept life in Ghana and see it as the normal. We drive past the most dilapidated mud shacks, naked kids playing in gutters filled with sewerage and I just take it all in. Some things still challenge me ... it seems to be the stupidest things. I still have trouble watching people eat with their hands! So silly! We still eat with cutlery and at times I’m wonder if it is ok if I pick up a bone to chew it or something, then I look at myself and laugh! Generally though I’m starting to feel at ease and at home here. Just as I convince myself that I fit in something will happen that makes me realise I won’t ever really blend in with the locals. Like this one time a little girl literally jumped in fright seeing us white people or when a taxi driver could not understand what I was saying but still proceeded to drive me around, asking other passengers if they had a clue what I said! In those moments I realise I’m actually living in Ghana.

Weekends are fabulous! The first weekend our host mum took us to a festival in her home town, so cultural and intriguing! We've also been to Cape Coast Castle where we learnt about the slave history, Kakum National park where we did a canopy walk and an eco friendly lodge called Green Turtle where we just relaxed, and explored the beautiful beach.

I didn’t really know what to expect coming here, but it is like nothing I could ever have imagined and I’m loving it! I am seeing so much and learning so much, every day is an adventure!