Today we are in Bhaktapur; a very medieval plae. It has a beautiful rural backdrop. Over the 2 days, I developed my appreciation wandering the streets aimlessly over a few hours with Bee and Rachel, to discover undiscovered temples and long, outstretched, walkways not found on maps or mentioned in any guide book.
We found mothers bathing their children near a well on narrow, sunlit alleyways. On the cobblestone streets we see most of the locals wear ragged clothes. A lot of the children are grubby. On the outskirts of Bhaktapur are many dusty brick houses and tiny and tight convenience stores. It took me an hour or 2 of exploring the inner streets to develop an appreciation, let alone the sheer enjoyment.As Rachel later consulted her Lonely Planet after her aimless wander, she found the advice was exactly ‘to wander aimlessly’. As we have complete faith in our Nepal Lonely Planet, we figured we’ve probably travelled Bhaktapur as a true traveler is supposed to.
Jane and Bee’s mission was the find the Nepali lolly ‘jerry’, (Rachel; “It’s Garry!”) wheat flour deep fried with sugar. Megan and I also found what we’d like to add to our collection of masculine named lollies ‘Rocky’ (basically a tasteless pastry that is too hard to bother 2nd glancing).
We are staying in a lovely quaint hostel called ‘Big Bell guest house’ where we enjoyed the textual-perfect boiled eggs and banana porridge at Big Bell. “Solid well-run cheapie” says our ‘Nepal Lonely Planet’. Yes. We do have complete faith in it to a tee. We also devoured amazing spinach and mushroom enchiladas chowmein and buttered toast for breakfast, lunch and dinner at “Sunny Guest House”. The sunny place had a gorgeous pink sunset one night as we ate our first dinner there, and in the morning it was a glorious light blue as we were speaking on skype to our lovelies. It was also a good balcony overlooking a type of Nepalise fighting set up for tourists and the town folk to watch and witness. A DJ played annoying and out of tune remixes of lady Gaga and the Black eyed peas, yet it was interesting to watch this small arena full of people anticipating a good Nepalise fight, a bit like boxing, not as nitty gritty. On the last day we were there the Nepalise fighting teachers competed against each other, so that day had rather a large crowd.
There were a few crazy sightings including 3 sick dogs running at a chicken that got so scared it flew - and yes I did scream. There golden temple was small but stunning. Rachel, Bee and I strolled down to the Potters square. We took videos of the men carving and shaping the pots…and then ran away after they held out their hand for money. Skillage by us! We peeked inside barn structures and found there was lots of labor. The pots they form are quite dainty. Small little pots that fit in your hand are approximately 15 rupees (25c).
As we continued our little self tour down the side streets with multiple shrines and temples (supposedly there are more than the population of Nepal), Bee and I realized how brilliant beyond brilliant we were for thinking of the coolest present for our brothers; knives, we wondered how we could possibly get knives through airport security. Our plans from scheming unfortunately led us to be ending up in Thailand jail.
We walked past many shops on the small silent cobblestone streets that sold paintings painted so delicately with real gold, silver and bronze paint. I watched a few young men painting whilst sitting what seemed to be the Australian equivalent of aboriginal paintings, with the only assistance of a very fine brush. They seemed very patient and focused, only moving their hand muscles. Other places that sold paintings with handmade paper and pastel water colours seemed to soak up my heart. I want all of them. I am determined to buy a whole shop worth if I can. I did however buy almost a whole shop worth of beautifully beaded pillow cases…yeah… but they really are dazzling with the colours and beads in their little patterns. I promise mum!
We were very “happy snappy” (As Bee says) as we took photos hugging stone elephants and posing in front of 1000 year old courtyards. Paying for a walking tour? Nah…we’re experts! We live here now! We’re not tourist, pfft! When in sight of other foreigners, we’re like, ‘Nup! Get out! This is our territory. Durbar Square was crowded as it is tourist season, however it is hardly as crowded or tourist infiltrated at Bhaktapur compared to Kathmandu. The majority of us prefer this.
I really am glad I did Bhaktapur properly and walked through it taking in a lot more meaning with my meandering as I grew quite a connection and appreciation for a place I found dirty and basically unappealing to begin with.
Little tid bits:
Bhaktapur would not be the same without:
• Bee’s Happy snaps
• Kiri finding 3 museums in 1 day
• Esther loving her fried rice
• Megan and I bonding over our banana porridge every morning outside thevillage, regardless of which hotel we are staying at. (Megan always seems to pick the best thing on the menu. That really is talent)
• Bee and my chocolate hunts at the local supermarket and chocolate renditions regardless of where we are for dessert.
• Peanut butter is a must for Rachel at supermarkets – even in Bhaktapur
• Kiri and her amazing 15 rupee small pot buys
• Kiri, Rachel, Megan and my ‘Beaver Gang’ and mini ‘German Monopoly charade’ a restaurant. Yes I really do think that ‘Plein S-Gravenhage’ ‘Vreeburg Utrecht’ and ‘Ketelstraat Arnhem’ indicates that we may have sat at the wrong table. We weren’t wrong when a mouse showed up. A foreigner from the next room heard us squeeling and tried to assure us with “Don’t worry. In Nepal mice are pets.” Yeah…wee know. We do live with a bat, cat, 2 ‘more than friendly’ mice, a group of mosquitos we accidently befriended and not to mention a visit buy a 2m snake under our brothers pillow, Rachel, Kiri and Suza’s bedroom poles, and my bedroom food stash. Due to our Nepali not being much better, we’ll deffers try and sit at an English table next time, and away from ‘Vreiden ville’ or whatever it was. Maybe our friends Jerry/Garry and Rocky will be there to greet us and let all problems ooze out of our tastebuds.
• Waking up to “Banana Pancakes” on the roomie of the weekend; Esther’s ipod.
• Greeting Nicole and Suza on the ‘Calamushi’ bus ride home after their week in Putan/Bhaktapur.
• Going to school before heading home to play netball and throw and catch with a tennis ball for our Sunday sport day.
• Spinach and mushroom enchiladas
• Chowmein
• Glorious morning walks in the cool sun
• Internet sessions and hearing one of the 7 of us randomly laughing or gasping at the computer screen after reading news
• Shopping for toblerone at the supermarket
• Nepalise men wrestling
• Meandering
• The dogs and chickens fighting
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