Monday 13 December 2010

BGGS Team C Update # 3 from Cambodia


BGGS Team C - Update # 3



Hello from Siem Reap :)
 
Following on from our last message which told you about our wonderful experience in the Cambodian capital, we have had many different adventures in Siem Reap and on our trek!
 
Day 6
Today, we woke up for a 6.30 breakfast so that we would be on time to catch our 7.10 courtesy shuttle bus to the Phnom Penh bus station. We were supposed to change buses and leave by 7.45 but we didn't end up leaving until about 8ish. We had a long journey ahead of us - an estimated 6 hours, but we knew that actually meant a little bit more. Along the way, we had two "pit stops " - the first at Shouk (a.k.a Spider town). Here, there were fried tarantulas and crickets on sale. Mr Martineau bought one, everyone watched on as he took the first bite. Apparently, it tasted like chicken? A few of the girls also tasted the spiders legs. Most of us also bought the most delicious pineapple that we have ever tasted! When we finally got to Siem Reap, a good 7 hours later, there were no taxis (only tuktuks). We loaded all the packs and us into tuktuks and went to the accomodation which we had conveniently pre-booked, Popular Guesthouse. It was a secluded little guesthouse with lovely rooms and a jungle-like restuarant. We had a late lunch just before the trek company (Buffalo tours) came to brief us on our 4 day ordeal that began the next day!!! Later, we went to the Siem Reap Night Markets and had a good shop, before realising that yet again we were not at the right markets. But alas, we will have plenty more opportunities to find the right one.
 
Day 7
Today was "Day 1 " of our long awaited trek. We woke up at 5.45 to finalise our packing list, and get ready for breakfast and the long day ahead. We reunited in the lobby at 8:00 with all of our gear. We packed things into the "wans "(the Cambodian pronunciation of vans) and started walking with our two trek guides "Soowan and Vutha'". They were the coolest people you will ever meet - definitely the best company for a 60-odd kilometre hike! We walked about 6 kms out of the main citty before stopping for snacks of soft drink, pringles and biscuits. Along the way we learnt various parts of Cambodian history as our guides were very knowledgeable and loved to talk. After we reapplied sunscreen, we continued walking. We were amazed at just how friendly the Cambodian children are. Their parents were constantly encouraging them to wave and say hello, some ran up and hugged us, others were very photo-willing. We all walked at our own pace and finished up at a farmers house in one of the villages. The house was huge and the food was amazing - three dishes with steamed rice and soft drink. Emma (being a vegetarian) got her own meal served every day -we were all a tad jealous). By this time, it was the heat of the day and keeping with Cambodian culture, we slept for the next hour and a half. The teenage girls had no problem with this. We had walked 12 kms out of our scheduled 16 for the day. When it was time to leave, and after reapplying sunscreen and "jungle juice "(insect repellent), we hopped into the wans and drove (more like 4WD-ing) to a place about 10 km away, before we started trekking again. As we were all about to die, we reached our accommodation for the night; a monastery. Our individual, mosquito netted, "sleeping chambers" were all set up and our packs were waiting for us. Some choose to shower in a bucket (which was said to be quite refreshing), while others chose the wet wipe option. We then walked up a hill to ancient ruins of a temple and watched the sunset. It was  a big red ball, and seeing it was just beautiful. Picture 1 (attached) is of us at the ruins..
 
Day 8
This morning we woke up (absolutely freezing) to monk music and the crowing of roosters at 6am! Breakfast was just what we all needed; a selection of various cereals (includig milo), milk, toast and spreads, apple pancakes and omelets. We all stocked up before we headed out on our biggest day (22kms). The first part of our journey was quite similar to the day before - as we walked families would come out to say hello and wish us well. They were all so curious by us. After about 8 km we stopped for  "rest". Quite conveniently, there was a celebration happening across the road for a mother who had given birth to her first baby. The music was blasting, everyone was dancing and we so wanted to join in. Our guide "soowan" asked them if we could join in. Thankfully, they said YESSSS. We joined in, raving and dancing, and playing with the little kids. It was so fun, but very hot. Plus, it's great to know that Cambodians love Pitbull just as much as we do :) (but, seriously, it was great!). We stayed for a good half hour getting pretty involved in the celebration. About half an hour later, it was time to leave (see photo. We said our goodbyes and were on our way, again. After about 3kms we stopped at a primary school for yumyums (lunch). Thea managed to get a boyfriend who attached himself to her, but the other kids were just generally intrigued by us being there. We ate another monstrous lunch and had another nanna nap. After lunch, we hopped into the wans and drove for half an hour before getting out and changing into our thongs. From there, we trekked through a flooded rice paddy for the remainder of the day. Every 200m there was a new puddle to get through- one time it got to thigh high! Before to long, we were done and arrived at our homestay which was a beautiful house. It had two bucket showers which many of us (but not all) choose to wash in, then we all sat cross-legged on the table for another magnificent traditional Khmer dinner. The steps up to the house were  more like a ladder, so we all decided that we wouldn't get up to use the toilet in the middle of the night! Before bed we had a history lesson of the Angkor village we were staying in and the one we would travel UP to the next day (emphasis on the word up!). We were all in need of a very good nights sleep.
 
Day 9
Today we woke up with our fleeceys and numerous blankets on. We didn't think it was possible in Cambodia but it was freezing! We had looked forward to brekky the whole previous day, and it didn't disappoint. We all made sure we had a decent sized (if not bigger than decent) meal before we headed out for the day. The start of the trek was pretty flat and slow. But, it rather quickly turned into an uphill rockclimb (and sweat bath!). We stopped several times for water and to use our fans (which we bought at the markets, and are so glad we did). About 3/4 of the way up we stopped at a place with "Holy water". It was actually the most refreshing thing ever; so cold and lovely and basically holy. We stopped for snacks at the top of the mountain in a little village with lots of kids.. As we ate, we also took photos of them and showed them on the camera screen. They weer so intrigued seeing themselves, they were smiling and pointing. It was so much fun, we all enjoy playing with the children so much. It took our mind of the soreness of our legs and the kilometres which we still had to walk. We stayed a good 20 minutes before it was time to continue on our trek. This time it was too long on wider snady hills, it was hot and very challenging. There was not much conversation. After about 2 hours, we were completely exhausted- we saw the wans. We have never been happier to see two vans in our entire lives! We collapsed in the shade and ate our pre-packed lunch and cold softdrink before driving to our final homestay. We split between two houses (8 in each). The main house (where we all ate, etc) was the most incredible place we've seen so far. We settled in before taking a short walk to "soowan's" favourite spot. The most amazingly beautiful waterfall (or biggest shower) in the world. We swam in the lagoon part and under the waterfall for a good hour. The water was freezing, but it was so refreshing! It was the best way to end our trek. But it wasn't over. Tearing ourselves away, we walked to the local temple. Along the way our group numbers grew. We accumulated about 20 kids who followed us up. The view from the temple was breathtaking. We were so high up that as we looked over the railings  we could see forever. We stayed a while in the courtyard and all the kids brought us little bunches of flowers from a beautiful bougainvillia archway. (See attached photo). Dinner that night, was a candle lit feast (with traditionally Khmer-dressed waiters). Towards the end, music started pumping and it was time for the local villagers to join us for our farwell party. Dancing with the kids was so much fun. We did a move, and they would copy us exactly. We danced for hours and could have for longer if we didnt have to get up at 5.30. After an amazing night, we said goodbye and went to bed.
 
Day 10
The itinery told us that we had to walk 9kms today, but it was a welcomed suprise when "Soowan" told us to jump in the vans. We drove for about an hour to the temples. As we approached we were all so excited! We got our tickets (we had to be photographed), then hopped back in the van to get to the first temple; Bayon. There were so many people, but the temple was beautiful. We spet about half an hour exploring before we moved on to Ta Prohm (The Tomb Raider Jungle Temple). It was magnificent. The trees had grown through the stone structure of the temple making it a very shady, cool, beautiful place. We had an hour to explore (and really used it!). We found so many secret passages and met some other tourists. LUnch had been organised at a traditional Khmer restaurant with a set menu of Amok, Stir fry (which was typed as stir fly!), and fried chicken with cashews, and steamed rice. It was beautiful and the fruit shakes were amazing. We then moved on to Angkor Wat. It was nothing like the photos! It was massive and every stone was intricately carved. It took 35 years and thousands of slaves to build, and you could definitely understand why. The grounds were spectacular and so well maintained. The grass courtyards, the beauitful lilly-pad filled lake and the man made moat. We spent a good 2 hours exploring the temple and its surrounds. By this point, we were all so exhausted from the trek that we hopped straight in the vans (but not before taking group photos -one is attached) and booking straight into a GuestHouse- The Millenium. At 6pm, Jo and Thom from the project came to give us a quick briefing about what to expect (we will be meeting them on Monday for more details.) We then split up for dinner as we were all craving some good Western food -for most of us it was pizza and crepes . It was amazing!! While some ventured throught the markets, others caught up on some well deserved sleep.
 
As we explore a bit more of Siem Reap today, a cooking class and markets, we pack to depart for the community project tomorrow. More updates hopefully after then.
 
Enjoy.
 
MIss you and love you all.
Love,
Team Ketut <3
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