Day by day getting to know Ghana

COUNTRY: Ghana
PROGRAM: UniBreak
PROJECT: Community Health Work
WRITTEN BY: Camille Gray

DAY ONE

As we walked out of the airport we were hit by a humid heat, and smells of burnt grass, spices and smog. Our bus ride was almost silent as we stared aghast at bustling African life. Waving at street vendors we were suddenly swarmed by women and men selling all sorts of items; water in little bags, dried plantain chips (more on these later), mentos lollies and watermelon. Cars on the road danced between each other beeping erratically, swerving over non-existent lanes.

We were constantly amused by Ghanaian shop names which took the opportunity to proclaim religious beliefs. It soon became normal to see ’God speaks the truth beauty salon’ and ’Allah is great carpark’.

We were granted a night of rest at our accommodation; the Manglad Hotel. Exhausted, the air conditioned rooms were a luxury in the heat and most of us went to bed early and woke at 2am, just as Katie had warned us after recovering from jetlag in Dubai.


DAY TWO

Today we began our orientation into Ghanaian life. Seth, our local leader for the trip, taught us an array of cultural knowledge using hand made notes and large maps of Ghana. We made mental notes to wave with our RIGHT hand rather than left (Ghanaians find the left hand offensive), to feel flattered when someone called us ’fat girl’ (Ghanaians prefer ’more flesh’ than a slim figure), and to try and visit a funeral if we had time (Ghanaians celebrate the end of life with vibrant parties).

Ama taught us that children are named depending on their day of birth, her name ’Ama’ the girl’s name for Saturday. We received a crash course in the local language ’Twi’ and have since attempted to ask local children, “Ete sen?” (How are you?), with many laughing in delight at our somewhat forced attempts.

For lunch we enjoyed traditional African jolife (rice soaked in stew), grilled plantain and fresh mango, before setting of for a drumming and dance lesson at Kakobrite beach. The initial drive to the beach was our first time seeing Ghanaian life away from the streets of Accra, and we were transfixed by images of women peeling eggs, men chopping wood and children playing in the dirt.

Our dancing lesson was first. We alternated between swift steps and repetitive hand movements, but simply did not posses the natural ’pulse’ of the dance like our instructor. Similarly the drum lesson tested our coordination and timing, at many points many of us simply hitting the drum in frustration. Later that night we would witness a drum and dance performance which combined extreme stamina with effortless African ’swag’.

Our visit to the beach was a truly spontaneous and utterly joyful experience.
It started with one. A tiny boy, maybe 3 or 4 years old shyly approached us, smiling apprehensively. He suddenly ran away, only to return with ’backup’.
Beckoning his friends, we were introduced to four ridiculously adorable children who immediately began grinning and raising their arms for hugs. Squealing, Hannah was the first to be swamped by the kids in the sand, and it wasn't long before we each experienced tiny bodies crawling all over us, crying out to be lifted, giggling hysterically, tugging at our hair and clothes. After Kiah was unexpectedly thrown into the water by three Ghanaian men, we proceeded to soak our feet in the warm ocean waves, and marvelled at insanely picturesque boats docked upon the sand.

DAY 3

Day 3 began with a trip to the textile markets. Lucy and Katie led the way displaying some serious bargaining skills, while others were saved by Seth who swooped in to check that we were indeed paying the ’good price’ we were offered. Bracelets, bags, patterned hats, Ghanaian soccer jerseys and paintings were popular purchases. Next were the food markets. Following each other in a single file line, we darted around massive crowds of people selling spices, meat and vegetables. Women carried huge bags of flour on their heads, whilst men called out, “Beautiful girls!” with cheeky smiles. We passed vendors selling “finger licking goat meat”, bush rats, monkey apples and dried fish, each exuding intense smells which wafted towards us with each turn.

Incredibly hot, sweaty and tired we somehow all made it back to the bus where Seth purchased us little bags of cold water. It is safe to say that our subsequent bus trip home was a highlight as we discovered the beautifully refreshing ’Fan Choco’ and ’Fan Yoghurt’ (Ghanaian ice cream frozen in plastic packets), purchased from vendors who came straight up to our bus window. Combining this treat with savoury plantain chips, we were in heaven. We collectively decided to do anything in our power to return home with as many plaintain chips as customs would allow.

Our day together as a group ended as we boarded the bus to Swedru, about an hour and a half out of Accra. We were each dropped off in pairs to meet our host families, warmly welcomed by our new host mother, father, brothers and sisters (and to Sally’s delight a few baby goats). Although many of the homes were without running water, all in the group agreed on the sincere kindness of the families. In many families it is the daughter who does the cooking and cleaning, rather than the parents (somewhat opposite to home...), and it was fascinating to see the differing interactions between the family members.

DAY FOUR

Soon it was our first day of work. Many of us rose early, unfamiliar with our new environment. Nina, Alice, Katie, Sally and Kiah entered Swedru Hospital together, brightly dressed in different coloured scrubs. Sally observed work in the hospital pharmacy, while Kiah and Katie were sent to help at the relatively quiet emergency ward, assisting in dressing wounds. Katie spoke to one of the four doctors at the hospital, many of whose see over 200 patients per day! Alice was confronted with the differing treatment of patients in the maternity ward while Nina assisted in the men's ward, speaking to patients and observing nurses.

Lucy and Jacqui were introduced to the principal of the Prince of Peace Primary school, and each assigned a class of their own, introduced as ’Madame Lucy’ and ’Madame Jacqueline’ to the children. The rooms were incredibly basic, with desks and one or two posters on the walls.

Hannah, Naomi and I made our way to Ewusiwa Educational complex where we shown around the 6 tiny classrooms home to varying age groups from 3 months to 5 years old. With the school officially opening tomorrow after to break, we were dismissed early and taken to the orphanage for the morning. The children at the orphanage are almost too gorgeous for words. Without frequent hugs and kisses, the children swarm towards you, desperate for attention, and looking up with the most heart melting eyes.

Confronted with over twenty tiny kindergarten orphans, Naomi, Hannah and I began singing nursery rhymes in English and soon discovered the children’s knowledge of the alphabet and numbers. With so many young children in a small room, it became difficult to control them, particularly as many were too engaged in trying to climb on our laps rather than learn the hand actions to Twinkle Twinkle Little Star.

Saying a difficult goodbye but promising to return soon, we three made our way back to Swedru to meet the rest of the group and swap stories with other volunteers and the Weekly Wednesday ’obruni’ meeting (’obruni’ being a friendly, non-rascist term for non-Ghanaians). We met volunteers from Holland, Germany, Sweden and the U.S, and received advice on places to visit as well as ways to wash hair with bucket showers! Sipping Ghanaian beer and ice cold Coke, it was a relaxing way to debrief our first day of work, and mentally prepare for the week ahead.

DAY FIVE

At the exact moment that I write today’s blog, I am sitting in Trust Beauty Salon surrounded by the group and approximately three hundred braids. With Jacqui, Hannah and Sally requiring synthetic hair extensions, and Nina and I indecisive of what style to get, we chat to locals and enjoy the shade while we can.
Esi Sakina is braiding Esi Jacqui’s hair, with reassuring words, “You look very nice.”

The group had a range of experiences on their first day; with Nina, Sally, Katie and Alice witnessing a natural birth, and Kiah dressing a dog bite wound. Without anaesthetic, and screaming in pain, the 20 year old mother was comforted by the girls. The Ghanaian nurse assisting her had her own child in a sling on her back! The girls remarked that they were more shocked by the treatment of the mothers, which can be rough and unsympathetic. Nursing in Ghana places far less emphasis on the mental care of the patient, and so here our volunteers have found their role by offering emotional support. The teachers in the group were confronted with few students in the classroom as Ghanaian children ’take a week or so to get back into school after holidays’. It is expected that by Monday we will be met with a full class.

DAY SIX

Left work early today to begin our travels to Cape Coast for the weekend. While waiting at the bus station, there was slight drama as Mikayla fainted in the heat, but thankfully was well looked after by the nurses of the group! After about an hour of waiting on the bus, snacking on FanIce and plaintain chips (amazing), we were finally off, and arrived at Cape Coast after an hour and a half, and only one bus break down.

Staying at the Oasis hotel, we were surrounded by other Obruni volunteers from the U.S and Europe. We spent the afternoon on the beach, with most of us running into the water for a swim before heading back for ridiculously cheap cocktails and Ghanaian beer. Ordering our meal two hours in advance (the kitchen works at ’Ghanaian time’, I.e. at an extremely relaxed pace), we enjoyed pizza, burgers, calamari and fish while listening to traditional drum performances.

DAY SEVEN

EXHAUSTED after a huge day. Woke early (try 5:30am) due to Ghanaian church services and even a marching band making their way through the streets.
All except Katie and Mikaela (who did the walk last week), ventured to Kakum National park, about an hour out of Cape Coast. We opted for the 'Canopy Walk' and made our way across shaky wooden planks and rope twenty metres up in the trees of the rainforest. Special mention to Lucy who conquered her fear of heights.
Kiah, Naomi, Jacqui and Alice spent the afternoon making traditional Batik fabric with a local woman, while Sally, Lucy, Hannah and I did some bargaining in the local shops, snatching a Camilla-look alike Kaftan for twenty Cedis each (about ten dollars aussie).
Mikaela, Neen and Katie relaxed by the beach, and soaked up the free wifi (sorely missed after a week).

About to head out for dinner, most of us wearing matching kaftans. We will surely grab another Ghanaian beverage and make a toast to the end of a life changing first week in Ghana.

MORE SOON.

xoxo Ghana Girl